Watching for Whales in the San Juan Islands

In mid September, my friend Bonnie and her daughter Tucker came for a visit. Bonnie, who is a writer, came to the Orcas Island Writer's Festival. She is working on a memoir and spent the week happily engaged with her peers. Tucker, who is a marine biologist and works on a tall ship similar to the Adventuress. jumped at the chance to visit Orcas Island. There are lots of great ways to get to Orcas, they choose Kenmore Air's float plane. It comes from Lake Union, takes an hour and arrives in Deer Harbor, West Sound or Rosario. Your choice! The sightseeing is worth the price of admission..But pack lightly..as it will cost you if you don't.

Bonnie and I worked together to start the Birth Center in Princeton, she was the Director of Nursing, I was the Director of Marketing. But the fun part was assisting at births together! Tucker was born at the center, as was my daughter, Heather.

Tucker's one wish was for her mom to see whales. Since she would only be with us for two days, early the next morning we headed off to San Juan Island's Lime Kilm Park. Ken chided me: "how do you know you'll see whales?" "Oh, I always do, so I'll just think positively." This is true, I have never gone looking for whales and not found them. One time my friend Tom Averna, who owns Deer Harbor Charters needed someone to crew..and asked me if I was free..so I went along as 'crew'. That day we saw the superpod! Over 90 whales greeting and breeching with gusto. What a sight!

So, off we went on the inter island ferry to see whales..On the ferry we met my friend, Deb, who works as a naturalist on another whale watch boat. We got to ask her all the important whale questions! We were already having a lucky day!

It was one of those foggy mornings at Lime Kilm, and we just about had the place to ourselves. While waiting for the whales to arrive, we looked at birds, and starfish, talked and admired the lighthouse..

Then about 40 minutes after we arrived..there they were! Orcas! In groups of 3 or 4, a total of 18 before the day was done! Spectacular!! There is something so very magical about living where there are whales! In the San Juans there are 3 resident pods, about 90 whales, who are primarily salmon eaters. You can often see them off of the west side of San Juan Island , as the channel is deep and there are lots of salmon there. I try to time it to when the tide is turning..so it's not all luck!

We left Lime Kilm due to hunger and headed for town, where we picked up a picnic of smoked salmon, fresh baked bread, humus and pears..then headed off to American Camp for lunch. The sun came out, and we lazed in the sun, no longer needing our sweatshirts. Back to home to Orcas on the ferry..with whale tales to tell...

Sailing To Stewart Island

Yesterday, our friends John and Yvonne from Crane Island, picked us up at Cayou Quay Marina in Deer Harbor to spend the day sailing over to Stuart Island. It was a perfect day once the morning fog lifted; sunny and warm, the end of the summer here in the Pacific Northwest. Our friends moved here ten years ago, when I sold them a home in Deer Harbor.

The Lighthouse Keeper's house.

Two years ago, I helped them sell that home to move to a waterfront home on Crane Island, where they could have a more maritime lifestyle. In order to get home, they take a boat, their own boat, rain or shine, wind or fog. They love it. Yvonne has taken up crabbing with a neighbor who lives in a small cabin on Crane, she has promised to take me with her next time. I was an avid crabber back east on the Jersey shore where I grew up, finding blue claws on the pilings, never really caring how big they were, it was the thrill of the chase that hooked me! But, here the reward is big- Dungeness!

John and Yvonne from Crane Island

Yvonne and I sat on the bow of the boat while sailing past Jones, San Juan, and Spieden Islands to Reid Harbor on Stuart. We had planned on lunch prior to hiking to the light house on Stuart. Just a mere 5 miles. They failed to mention the 127 steps (Ken counted) that reminded me of Bridalveil Falls in Yosemite, or the long uphill grade that went on forever...both directions it was mostly uphill-truly.

Can you imagine an island with no cars? Dirt roads used as walking paths, huge maples and firs on either side, vistas looking down golden meadows to a pristine bay with the mountains beyond?

Here is the path to the lighthouse from the dock.
We hiked to the lighthouse and the lighthouse keeper's home. Traditional red roof and white walls, it was charming, a big porch across the front over looking the water. It made me yearn for this life- even simpler than ours on Orcas. More in touch with nature. I had a chance to revisit that thought when Ken told me that in 1948 one lighthouse keeper moved to the island and then spent two months without power and had no running water, finally busting into the cistern to get fresh water under two feet of ice, which he hauled by the bucket full for drinking. The pay was $90 per
month.

Sitting on the dried grasses by the lighthouse, we shared two peaches from Coffelt's Farm on Orcas and a chocolate bar. Idyllic! We watched a porpoise swim in tune to his own music, the kelp waved in the changing tide, boats sailed by. I feel so very lucky to be living this life, surrounded by nature and the gentle climate of the San Juan Islands. Clear skies all summer, gentle rains in the winter, exceptional people as friends and neighbors. Yes, I am one of the lucky ones!
Stewart Lighthouse
As the sun set, we sailed home eating a picnic of sushi and crackers and cheese, sharing a bottle of good wine and stories about life on Orcas Island.